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Tartine Bread, by Chad Robertson
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For the home or professional bread-maker, this is the book of the season. It comes from a man many consider to be the best bread baker in the United States: Chad Robertson, co-owner of Tartine Bakery in San Francisco, a city that knows its bread. To Chad, bread is the foundation of a meal, the center of daily life, and each loaf tells the story of the baker who shaped it. He developed his unique bread over two decades of apprenticeship with the finest artisan bakers in France and the United States, as well as experimentation in his own ovens. Readers will be astonished at how elemental it is. A hundred photographs from years of testing, teaching, and recipe development provide step-by-step inspiration, while additional recipes provide inspiration for using up every delicious morsel.
- Sales Rank: #3615 in Books
- Brand: Chronicle Books
- Published on: 2010-09-29
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.50" h x 1.50" w x 9.00" l, 2.94 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 304 pages
From Publishers Weekly
Chad Robertson (co-owner, with his wife, Elisabeth Prueitt, of San Francisco's Tartine, Bar Tartine) brings his master Tartine Bread technique to those who may not have the chance to try the famed Bay Area loaves hot out of the oven. This "baker's guidebook" is divided into four parts: Basic Country Bread; Semolina and Whole-Wheat Breads; Baguettes and Enriched Breads; and Day-Old Bread. Robertson's basic recipe is explained in depth with numbered steps, and consists of making a natural leaven and baking in a cast-iron cooker. The author's passionate tone and tales of baking apprenticeships, along with top-notch step-by-step photos, elevate the title from mere manual to enjoyable read. The later sections include variations on the basic recipe; bread-to-use recipes for sandwiches; bruschetta; and salads and entrees made with croutons and breadcrumbs. The sophisticated and clean design, exceptional photos, and padded cover give the book a luxurious feel. (Nov.)
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Review
"...the most beautiful bread book yet published..." -- The New York Times
About the Author
Chad Robertson trained at the Culinary Institute of America and, with his wife Elisabeth Prueitt, won the James Beard Outstanding Pastry Chef Award in 2008.
Eric Wolfinger is a photographer, surfer, and bread-making apprentice at Tartine Bakery. Like Chad, he lives in San Francisco.
Most helpful customer reviews
20 of 21 people found the following review helpful.
The Zen of Bread Making
By NewEnglandScene
I have several bread books. Each has its own character. I would call Tartine Bread the 'Zen of Bread Making'. I contrast that to Ken Forkish's book, Flour Water Salt Yeast: The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza, which is the 'Algorithm of Bread Making' --written by a former software engineer, turned master bread baker. I like both books; both produce great bread. Robertson and Forkish come at artisan (mostly naturally leavened) bread in notably different manners: zen practice v. bread algorithm. They have overlapping (similar), complementary, and different approaches and techniques.
Flour Water Salt Yeast: The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza, by Ken Forkish, will get you to the result of very good bread with precision. Chad Robertson's Tartine Bread introduces you to a system (the 'Tartine Method') with a strong emphasis on sensory feedback and adaptation. Robertson is less prescriptive than Forkish. His "overly ripe fruity smell" test for leaven is the kind of guidance he gives the reader. Robertson will tell you to use 'warm water'; Forkish will specify the temperature (to the degree). When developing a starter, Robertson will tell you to discard 80% of the previous day's batch and add equal proportions of flour and water, paying less attention to exact proportions than to making sure you have a consistency of a 'thick batter'. Forkish will give you the measurements to the gram and the temperature of the water.
For me, the Tartine Method and Robertson's instruction are intuitive and enduring (beyond the recipe), notional and philosophical, Zen-like and spiritual in their ambiguity --a kind of guidance that demands attention and promotes continual learning. I understand why other commenters have suggested Tartine Bread might be less appropriate for 'beginners', since experience certainly does help one feel and understand what Robertson is asking for as he guides you through the steps of artisan bread making. Through repetition, I now achieve pretty consistent success. To be sure I have had some lesser variants, esp. early on, which I learned from. And I am still learning [Grasshopper].
I was glad I worked through Forkish's book first, since his 'programatic' approach works, quite consistently. But I was delighted to discover Tartine Bread afterward. Tartine Bread felt like a master class in the art of bread making, with Robertson as the Zen master. I really enjoy Robertson's style of writing and bread making, but it isn't for everyone. And don't expect the very same success every time. With natural leaven and variably temperatures and humidity, consistency is hard to accomplish. Things do (it seems) to go wrong, even when you are doing everything the same way in the same proportion as the previous batch. Through experience, I am more able to rescue the batch now if something is not turning out right. Happily, repetition builds your intuition and increases the consistency of the outcome, in spite of the variable conditions. The Zen of Roberton's Tartine Method is based on repetition of the core Country Loaf over and over, somewhat meditatively, as you acquire knowledge and experience. Once you master and the process, it really does become instinctive. You really do feel what is happening and start to adapt, almost unconsciously.
For me, baking the Country Loaf is a kind of ritual at the end of the week. What better way to unwind on a weekend after stressful week that to do something so basic and satisfying as baking bread? While the bread is rising/proofing, I go out for long bike ride. Just before dinner, I put the loaves in the oven, and I have fresh bread for dinner and the week to come. If only success came so predictably during the work week...
After mastering the basic loaf, you can experiment. Robertson offers a few variations in the book: olive, sesame, walnut, etc. The new ingredients transform the bread. The core bread becomes the orchestra in a concerto, with a bright new solo ingredient playing the lead. Other variants are up to the baker to develop. I have taken to adding nuts and pieces of dried fruit. There are more great breads in the book besides the the core Country Loaf, but the Country Loaf is where you start and build your skill and experience.
[Robertson's olive variant to the Country Loaf is pictured in this review. It is the 'best' olive bread I have ever tasted. I have put fruit, nuts, and seeds in this bread with similarly great results.]
The comments by trolls about too much of Robertson's life/bread story are bilge. I like to know where/how a bread maker arrived at his insights. If you want lots of recipes and the facts, just the facts, buy Jeffrey Hamelman's book, Bread: A Baker's Book of Techniques and Recipes, an authoritative compendium of bread formulas by a bread master, without Robertson's texture an story. Hamelman's book is more textbook than bread-making journey. Although very good, Hamelman's book is pretty plain reading, dry and geared more toward the professional bread make who needs lots of solid recipes than the home baker --I think. I prefer to hear/feel the author's voice and know where/how he (she) came to his insights. Chad Robertson and Ken Forkish offer you their background and some of their life story, and I think it adds, not subtracts, from the content. There are some other negative comments about one of Robertson's baker's percentages. That is a nit and is not relevant to the outcome for a home baker. You can easily see from his baker's percentage table what Robertson is getting at --can't these pundits think of anything more substantial to grouse about?
Since bread making is a creative, adaptive, learning experience, and Tartine Bread is written in that spirit, it is not surprising that bread baking and surfing are Chad Robertson's twin passions. Much as there is no Rx for how bake great bread, there is no formula for how surf. There are some basics and lots of acquired wisdom in surfing and bread-making, however in both you have to feel the moment and everything around you, adapt (sometimes rescuing success from near-failure), and above all enjoy the journey ...wherever it takes you. Each batch of Tartine bread I bake is a little different; a little softer, more aerated, stiffer,... As Robertson says, you measure what you can, then sense what is going on and adjust. Adjustments like that are what bread making is about, esp. at home, where we do not generally control systematically for temperature and humidity as a professional bakery does.
Take for instance the transition between winter and spring. The transition always seems to sneak up on me. The kitchen is warmer, the air is more humid, and suddenly my bread is overproofed. Robertson or Forkish can mention it, but correcting for seasonal variation is something you just have to learn. It never fails that every June a batch of bread returns to starter because it rose or proofed too long or the starter was just more 'active' than it had been a month ago.
In a NY Times 2014 Story on Tartine and Chad Robertson, the author of the article, Suzanne Lenzer, summed up the home bread baking experience very well:
"Finally, know that every time you bake you’ll most likely
get a slightly different outcome. The nature of bread baking
at home is unpredictable, not least because you’re working
with a living organism. The level of activity of your starter,
the humidity in your kitchen, the temperature during the
rises — all of these affect your loaf."
[Oh yes, and for the curious, the NY Times does reprint the Country Loaf recipe in their article. However... there is so much more detail and background in the book. Spring for the book! It is worth it.]
A note for those new to bread baking. I have had a few Peter Reinhart books and liked them as an introduction to bread making and a desk reference, but after a couple readings I rarely used them and sold them back to aspiring bread-makers. There are some okay basic recipes in the Reinhardt books, but the Forkish and Robertson final products are more to my taste. And if I am looking for just recipes, Hamelman's book Bread: A Baker's Book of Techniques and Recipes is a better source than Reinhart. Reinhart's end products are not as complex and rich as Chad Robertson's. Reinhardt is rich in bread knowledge and a great teacher (just watch his videos!), but I have found the breads in his book 'good'/'okay', but not 'great'. I have produced some truly great results from Forkish and Robertson. For those of you familiar with cookbooks, I would call Reinhart's books the 'Cooks Illustrated/Test Kitchen' equivalent of bread books: lots of 'why this works' stuff, which is interesting, but like the Cooks Illustrated books, the recipes are pretty 'cookbook'. Robertson is more like Julia Child (in her first books, like Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. 1). That is not meant to take issue with Reinhart; he has done very good things for bread making in the USA. It is a question of style, taste or where you are in your bread journey. Once I made and tasted Chad Robertson's Country Loaf, I was hooked. Ken Forkish's breads are the only ones I have found that match them. Going back to a Reinhart recipe I thought I liked before cooking from Robertson and Forkish, I was disappointed. I had since tasted --and made!-- something better.
The Forkish and Robertson breads are similarly developed, and both are cooked in dutch ovens. Forkish places the folded side up and uses the natural folds to relieve surface pressure; Robertson places the rounded side up and slashes the top with a bread lame. Perhaps the biggest difference is that in his sourdough breads Robertson uses only natural leaven in his signature Country Loaf and its derivatives; Forkish has a variety of natural leaven starter / instant yeast hybrid hybrids in his book in addition to his all naturally leavened breads. The results (taste, texture) of the hybrid yeast breads are quite good, even though I give the edge to 100% naturally leavened breads.
Once I got the hang of Chad Robertson's Country Loaf, it became my own. It is the easiest and most satisfying loaf in my collection. I know it by heart and by feel. Doing it enough times, it becomes part of you and as routine as driving (or cycling) to work.
A caution to bread-bakers: Robertson's leavened breads will take the day to make. The 'hands on' time is relatively small, but there are many steps requiring continuous intervention and observation. You really need to be home or near home to make this bread, esp. during the 3 hr bulk rise. Robertson starts first thing in the morning after starter fed the night before (so it is still 'young', sweet and milky), and the bread is ready by dinner time. During that time, there is mixing, folding, resting and rising, proofing and of course baking itself (which is quick, just 40 min). If you want the great product in the end, it takes time and patience --and some adaptation and intuition as conditions and outcomes change. And you will need a 4 - 5 quart dutch oven to make Robertson's artisan loaves, at least one (@~$50) if you don't already have one. The Robertson no-kneed bread will just not work without that.
If you are passionate about naturally leavened breads, there is an excellent discussion of naturally leavened breads and why, despite the extra effort, natural leavening is superior to commercial yeasting in The Bread Builders: Hearth Loaves and Masonry Ovens, with Chad Robertson on the cover. If you read this book, you may never purchase a store bought loaf of bread of any kind again. The authors, Wing (a biologist and physician) and Scott (a [non]traditional artisan), have the most comprehensive treatment of bread fermenting I have seen, which is fully half the book. If you are passionate about your bread and want to understand at a fundamental level the leavening process that underlies the Tartine Method, this is a great book to check out from the library or to own. Personally, I am not ready to move to a wood fired oven for the ultimate bread experience, but if I were, the second half of the book would be my primer. The dutch oven method used by Robertson and Forkish is close enough to the masonry oven for me --at least for now. My focus is fermenting. Since proper fermentation is so critical to Robertson's bread, this book will take you deeper into that topic, even if you aren't building your own bread oven.
If you want your head to spin about the chemistry of bread fermentation, I can also recommend Emily Buehler's Bread Science: The Chemistry and Craft of Making Bread; a great treatise on all things bread from a chemist, and good value in the Kindle edition. I learned stuff reading through that book, from a scientific perspective, which improved my technique and intuition using the core Tartine Method.
I would suggest that advancing bread-makers get both Tartine Bread and Flour Water Salt Yeast: The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza. I would start with Forkish, gain some experience and confidence, graduate to Robertson, and continue to experiment using both books. I would probably skip Peter Reinhhart's book, The Bread Baker's Apprentice: Mastering the Art of Extraordinary Bread. The photos are great and he walks you things step by step, commenting all the way. I did learn basic bread making from that book, a kind of Bread Making 101, but I grew out of it more quickly than I thought. Looking back, I would have been better starting with Ken Forkish's book.
Like Ken Forkish's book, Chad Robertson's 'Tartine Method' is a enduring book; it goes beyond the recipes and the basic instruction, developing your knowledge, intuition, and skill by mastering a core practice. If you need more recipes, I recommend Jeffrey Hamelman's book Bread: A Baker's Book of Techniques and Recipes. These are not wet dough dutch oven breads like Robertson and Forkish, but they are nice alternatives, well-tested and reliable.
**Addendum 5-June-2016**
Tartine Book No. 3: Modern Ancient Classic Whole, a book focused on whole grains, is a great sequel to this book. Not only does Chad Robinson take a deep dive into whole grains and heirloom varieties, he adds some useful refinements to his starter development/maintenance. Feeding 2x/day is an improvement over his daily feeding in the original Tartine Bread, and his suggested feeding quantities waste less grain.
These healthy new formulations are definitely worth experimenting with. They are cooked in Robertson's signature style, in a Dutch oven. That is the only way to get the caramelized crust that feels and tastes wood fired bread.
The style of the newer book is not the same as Tartine Bread. Taritine #3 is more of a tour de grains with other professional bread bakers. Whereas the Tartine Bread is a story of a bread maker's personal journey to enlightenment as told to Erik Wolfinger. The co-author of Tartine Bread and book photographer, Eric Wolfinger, is missing from Tartine #3. So, the books have a very different feel.
Jack Kerouac could only write On the Road once.
738 of 771 people found the following review helpful.
For intermediate or advanced bakers
By Cookbook Gal
Some background: I am an advanced home baker with a couple years of professional baking under my belt, many years ago, so that is the perspective from which I write this review.
What this book is: a compilation of recipes from Tartine Bakery. There are only a few bread recipes, and then a collection of dishes made with those breads.
What it is not: a comprehensive bread baking book, or a book for beginners.
There really are only a few bread recipes in this book. The author goes into lengthy detail about his breads, his philosophy, and how to make them. For those of you who are familiar with Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking's treatise on how to make an omelet (it's about 20 pages long), that is what you will find here, just a lot fewer recipes. Why? Because Tartine specializes in making a few breads and pastries, and this book is about their bakery.
If you are looking for a comprehensive baking book of artisan breads, try Jeffrey Hamelman's "Bread." If you want easy, tasty recipes for most home bakers, take a look at the King Arthur Flour baking books, or Beth Hensperger's excellent "Bread Bible."
So, if you are not into creating and nursing sourdough starters, or you have no interest in reading through 20 pages of instructions to teach you how to make an artisan loaf of Tartine bread, this is not the book for you. There are plenty of other wonderful books on the market for that.
I would recommend this book for intermediate or advanced home bakers, or for professionals who are really looking to expand their bread baking repertoire.
The book does have some of the most detailed photos on folding and shaping loaves that I've seen, but the "artsy" quality of those photos is really irritating - I don't want to see special shadowing, I just want a clear picture of a technique.
11 of 11 people found the following review helpful.
A little science goes a long way.
By Heather C.
While many reviewers have said that this book is too wordy and is difficult to follow, I have found that it fills in the missing pieces to my own bread baking adventures. I am an avid home baker with no professional experience, but a good sense of adventure. I experimented a lot using the information from informative blogs out there to start my tartine adventure before I purchased the book. The first loaf was definitely a hockey puck and while the flavor was good, it was handed to the birds. Due to the fact that it is winter in NH my starter is slower acting than it would be in warmer temperatures so I had to modify times and set up a warmer environment to help my dough along.
This book is not for those who must follow a recipe exactly, it encourages a sense of adventure and you must be willing to analyze your results and be willing to make changes. The book is a good guidebook for what to look for and how to recognize what is going right and what may be going wrong with your dough. Many reviewers have been thrown off by mixing a 5 pound batch of white and whole wheat flower for the starter, it does not require anywhere near five pounds of flour, only a few handfuls. It also does not require extensive equipment, just a scale, and a dutch oven are preferable. I attempted a loaf on my baking stone and it did not compare to the loaf I produced in the dutch oven. The combo cooker he recommends is $36, and the scale was here on amazon for $20. The results produced were well worth the initial expense.
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